Wednesday, January 19, 2011

#18: Meeting of the Minds

Hola, bon dia!  Or, bona nit, as the Catalans would say this time of evening.

Today the class and I went to a Catholic school to contrast the education system in France with the one here in Spain.  It was ok.  The kids weren't interactive like they were at the Bressola school, and our speaker was long on words and short on remembering that we're not native speakers and can't keep up with historical terms and dates that fast.  We toured a couple classrooms, observed some students at recess, and asked a few questions.

The exciting part of my day was going to visit Catalonian Parliament (hence the entry title).  We had been told in advance that this was a possibility on the itinerary, so we all had to pack one "nice" outfit (slacks or a skirt/dress, blouse, sweater or button down, and appropriate shoes).  We also had to bring our passports in order to enter.  For some reason, the Catalonian Parliament house is next door to the Barcelona Zoo (politics, zookeepers--I can see it).  However, it's a beautiful park--loaded with Audis.  Apparently Audi makes the official car for all Catalonian lawmakers.  We waited outside for the session to be finished, and we actually caught a glimpse of the Catalonian president, recently elected last month! It was all very low-key--no paparazzi or anything, just a couple journalists for local papers and legislative aides walking to their cars or having a smoke.  (Note: Everyone smokes in Europe.  Even the dogs.  And  in Andorra, our hotel was smoking-friendly, so be forewarned.)

The guide announced that the president was coming, we all readied our cameras...  He walked up to a car waiting on the curb, got in, and took off.  He didn't even "act" like a celebrity, just a guy leaving work for the day.  I was still adequately impressed, of course.

Señor Presidente!  Oh, I don't think he heard me.

The Parliament house was ritzy.  I've been to Congress as a kid, but it didn't leave nearly as much as an impression on me as the Parliament house did (then again, I wasn't paying attention back then).  EVERYTHING is marble and polished wood.  All the chairs are plush red velvet.  The draperies and area rugs look like something out of magazines.  And since most of the legislators left, it was quiet and we could peep in without being asked to leave.

We met with the current house leader, whose party of "independentists" are the majority right now.  His party believes that Catalonia should become its own nation independent from Spain.  It was interesting to hear his take on things.  I asked him "What do you think would happen to Spain if Catalonia left?"  Basically, Barcelona is the most prosperous city in Spain, and this entire region is doing the best economically--most of their taxes bankroll the rest of Spain right now.  Literally, Spain's economy would tank, possibly to almost third world status, nearly overnight if Catalonia seceded.

"Well, first Spain would not like it at all," he joked.  Basically, the politician's views are that the relationship between Spain and Catalonia has always been terse and it would be better if Catalonia moved on, took care of itself and remained political and economic allies with Spain. He cited Portugal as an example (back in like the 11th century Portugal was part of Spain for all of 39 minutes or so).  He also showed that Canada and Australia, while separate and independent nations, still cite their queen as the Queen of England (despite having completely different political systems and answering to their respective presidents).  Catalonians really like the King of Spain because whenever he comes to visit, he tries to speak in Catalan, which is a huge compliment to the people (remember, there are a generation of Catalans who grew up speaking their language in private for fear of death--not even 40 years ago, so this is still in recent memory).  So maybe if Catalonia were its own nation yet still considered a subject of the Spanish crown, it would still be okay.

the front of the meeting room we were in to hear the party leader speak


look!  i'm signing a bill into law!  (the big green button meant we were visitors)

After the house leader's Q&A session with us, he gave us a short look around to the chamber where all of the legislative work actually takes place.  Again, plushy red seats and lots of wood and velvet.  We got to sit in various spots and he told us which important party leaders sit where, and what they do during a typical session.  He had to leave to attend another session, but we took pictures and relaxed in a small lobby (with leather armchairs!) until we left.

Wouldn't it be cool to have your office look like this?


 We weren't allowed up at the podium on top.

The party leader, explaining what goes on in chamber

I want to close this entry by saying I had some of the best gelato (white chocolate) of my life with lunch today, at a little cafe on the Rambla.  It was amazing, and I was actually sad to finish it.  Barcelona is number one city to eat gelato in all the world.  What a fabulous city!

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

#17: Back in Barcelona

Today we left Andorra and drove south to Barcelona again.  We'll be here for the next six days.  The hotel we're staying at is in a completely different part of town than the first time, but I still can get around because of the metro.

At the hotel in Barça, we had our last lunch together as a group.  While I'll be happy to get home for a little bit and am excited to move to Mexico, I'm a little sad that my time in Europe is drawing to a close.  I've had so much fun exploring new places, trying new foods, and immersing myself in different cultures!  But of course, there's the fact that this is still a class, so there's a term paper due at the end of the month (the day after I get back home, as a matter of fact).

I have just under a week left here in Spain.  We have a few more planned activities on the itinerary, but a lot more free time to explore, hang out and study as well.  Today I went to the Museum of Catalonian Art, which was one of the first places I visited (from the outside) on my first day in Barcelona.  I brought my school ID with me and was able to get the student rate!  I spent nearly 3 hours inside the museum and saw every single exhibit.  (At this museum, you keep your ticket the entire time and every time you reach a new exhibit, you present your ticket to prove that you didn't sneak in).  The museum has the largest collection of medieval (romanesque) art I've ever seen!  (No pictures were allowed in the galleries, so I only have pictures of the architecture of the building inside and out.)   There were also modernist pieces by Picasso and Dalí, a baroque period section... My favorite exhibit was on a history of coins in the region.  (Fun fact:  the study of coins or the collection of coins as a hobby are both known as numismatics.)  There were 2000 year old coins from the Roman empire, all the way to today's euro and (pretend) debit and credit cards.  The best part was after you saw the modern money, it went back to the ancient currencies--that were counterfeited!  Apparently people have been trying to get something for nothing since the dawn of time.  And again, you could see the tools used in counterfeiting and the fake coins themselves through the ages, all the way to the (old) $100 US bill and euros.  There was even a machine to check your euros to make sure they were legit!

The best part about going to the museum was that I had to take the metro by myself, in an area I didn't know very well, to an area I didn't know very well--and it was a success!  On the return trip, I had more difficulty because when I exited the metro I got a little turned around.  I headed in what felt like the best direction and, while at a deli buying a pasta salad for dinner, asked the owner for directions and was only 3 blocks away from where I was trying to go!  I also stopped at a greengrocer to buy some fruits before arriving back at the hotel, safe and sound.  Since I'm all caught up with classwork, I spent the rest of the evening blogging and uploading pictures (of course).

These last few days will be short, my readership, but the adventure will not end here!  I'll update until the day before I leave, but the blog will go on hiatus for a week while I relax at home with family before moving to Mexico.  And then...  more pictures, more stories, more learning.  But don't leave yet!  Tomorrow I'm going to someplace... "top secret", at least for now.  I probably won't be able to take pictures but I'll write all about it as soon as I can.

#16: Like the Same, But Different

Instead of making an entire entry about a low-key Monday, I decided to point out some cultural differences that I've found between the United States and the parts of Europe I've visited so far.

The first and biggest thing I've noticed are the people and their dress code.  To begin, Europeans wear a lot of dark colors, but they're very stylish.  All of the styles that are popular right now (and a few that we haven't seen yet!) in the States, you can see people wearing that every day on the street.  Men and women are well-groomed and generally don't dress as casually as we do.  Older people don't dress "old"--you can look at a woman in her 50s and see the same outfit on a woman in her 20s.  Even when wearing jeans, the average European will have a nice blouse or button-down, or if in a t-shirt, a cool scarf or nice shoes to complement the ensemble.  NO SNEAKERS, EVER.  I can generally spot a tourist now by their footwear.  There are no flip-flops (then again, it's the middle of January) and grown people don't wear tennis shoes.  Even younger people who dress like hipsters  have on loafers or boots or ballerina flats.  The few times I've seen sneakers, they're usually chucks (and the extra-high top is coming back in style).  Nobody wears Jordans, and Nike stores here are just to buy jerseys from your favorite team or athletic shoes to work out in, not to sport as fashionable.  Also, it's ok for men here to know how to dress themselves--and others!  In the department stores in Andorra, many shoppers were men helping their wives/girlfriends by grabbing things off the racks and bringing it to them.  Not a single man in the store picked something I would have rejected.  And not a single one was stared at, frowned upon, or had his sexuality questioned.

Speaking of men, European men are just as involved with family activities as the women are.  Family is very important in just about every European culture.  Everyone eats lunch or dinner together (sometimes both), and often you'll see parents and kids walking the dog together.  I was very impressed by the number of men I saw with kids--way more than in the states.  By that, I mean that these were men taking their little ones to the park, or having lunch with an older child, or chaperoning a group date with a bunch of teens.  I would say that from the way it looks, parenting here is almost 50/50 mom/dad.

By far the biggest "culture shock" is the general acceptance of sexuality and lack of censorship in Europe.  Trendy boutiques will have uncensored rap music playing, and even the basic channels on TV show some skin--or a lot, as we all found eventually while flipping stations.  However, women, especially younger ones in my age range, don't dress nearly as provocatively as women do in the states.  Again, I know it's January and everyone's layered up, but on the warm days women in miniskirts or shorts have on tights, necklines are flattering without flashing, and clothes don't appear to be painted on.  Maybe since everyone here is comfortable with the idea of human sexuality, there's no need to pander for attention with your body.

And finally, a few more travel tips thrown into the mix:  Bring a washcloth.  In fact, bring a couple.  Most European hotels don't have them (unless you get them by request? I haven't tried).  I brought my own washcloth, just in case, and it's come in handy every single night when I shower.  I wish I would have brought a second one to wash my face with in the mornings, but makeup wipes do the trick as well.

Ever wonder why Europeans, especially the French, have such a reputation for being snooty towards Americans?  We don't show enough common courtesy.  Specifically, when you enter a small store, like a boutique, or a deli, or a souvenir shop, say "Hello" in the host language.  Seriously, that's all it takes.  In European culture, the person to arrive is the one to greet the room, especially when it's younger people toward elders.  Most Americans walk into a shop and just start browsing, and the Europeans are shocked that they didn't speak.  They feel slighted and give you a cold reception, and it all goes downhill from there.  In fact, it's a good idea in general to know a few basic words and phrases in whatever country you visit:  Hello/Good day, Please, Thank you, How much is...?, and Where is...?.  Most people, if they see that you're trying to be polite, will help you out (in English, even!).  Americans get into the most trouble abroad when they assume that everyone knows English and should speak accordingly.  (Most people do, but remember--common courtesy!).  Also, when exiting a shop, even if you didn't buy anything, say Thank you.  Really, you should practice this wherever you go--if we all used a little manners, the world would be a nicer place.

And, since I have put a few pictures in the past few entries, there are TWO albums for you to browse, here and here.

#15: Welcome to the Winter Wonderland

Sunday morning, I had breakfast at the hotel and excitedly got on the bus to head to one of the major ski parks in Andorra, Grandvalira.  My original plan was to try to ski.  First, I wasn't wearing the right clothes (and I had no clue!).  I wore a turtleneck with a cotton cami underneath, a pair of jeans with tights and thick socks, my "snow" boots (note: Mom bought these for me in Louisiana, so they're really more like "frost" boots) and a wonderful all-weather jacket I bought from walmart once for about $12.  It had a fleece lining and was water-repellent on the outside with a hood, so it kept me warm without weighing me down.

Those are not ski-appropriate clothes, according to Google.

First, I needed ski pants, so when I fell my butt wouldn't get wet.  (Oops.)  The jacket was ok, but I should have had a shirt with moisture wicking and insulation to keep me warm and dry.  (Strike two!)  And those frost boots? Definitely needed real snow boots with traction and again, insulation.  (Although the frost boots were very warm, just very slippery on the ice and snow.)

It was all just useful information for later because when we got to the ski resort, the skiing prices deterred me by A LOT.  And to rent an instructor, even for two hours, was something like 130E!  I decided to forget the skiing this time and maybe try it in the states, where it's bound to be cheaper (and the slopes aren't as difficult).'



Instead I went with another group who wanted to try "winter activities".  We paid 6.50 for the pedestrian passes (one ride up the funicular and one down) and entered the park.  Originally we wanted to go tubing, but it was canceled because the conditions weren't good (not enough snow on the slopes in general, so they used snow machines, but there was a lot of residual ice as a result).  Instead, we went dog mushing.  YES.   It was only half an hour, but i LOOOVED it!  Basically, we walked up to the lodge where the guides loaned us (real) snow boots to use.  They took us to the sleds and introduced us to the teams of dogs.  Since we each wanted to drive, we each got a pack of dogs.  You stand on the runners behind the sled and hold on to the handle, but you steer with your body (staying bent at the knees and leaning left or right, or crouching left or right during a curve).  Between the runners is a metal lever that you can press with your foot as the brakes, and it slows the dogs down.  There is also a metal anchor that you can throw into the snow, with long teeth that stick in the ground.  This keeps the dogs from running away with the sled if you're not ready to move.

My three dogs were very frisky and loved to run.  My lead dog's name was Boosh.  You learn your lead dog so that you can shout commands to him/her, and the rest of the pack follows.  Boosh was a good leader because he was playful with his pack mates but still eager to pull.  Some of the other lead dogs were tired or not very convincing to their pack (slower sled) or too aggressive and jumpy with the pack (altercations between dogs during breaks).

That's my pack! Boosh is the light colored dog up front.

After learning all those basics, I stood on my runners and said, "Go-go-go, Boosh!" and the dogs took off!  We had a couple practice runs around a small track with a light curve to get us used to the dogs and how to hold your body in the turns.  Unfortunately, my dogs knew the track by heart and as soon as they saw the curve, they would sprint before I had time to apply the brakes to slow down.  They would throw me off the sled, into the snow and the guide would have to catch the dogs and drop the anchor while I jogged to catch up.  (This happened four times!)

I was at a stop (see the anchor on the side of the sled?).  10 minutes later I was on my butt, laughing as my dogs ran down the hill.

The most exhilarating part was when we took a deep curve followed by a long sloping hill.  For all of three seconds I felt like a champion sled driver--and then Boosh and the gang threw me off, and I had to trot a long and cold way downhill to catch up to them, and drive them in for the final stretch.  All in all, I loved dog mushing!  If I ever move to a colder climate, I'd consider taking up dog mushing as a real hobby.

Bethany and I also went snowshoeing, but I didn't care for it very much.  Again, you don the snow boots and put them into these giant plastic contraptions which are designed to more evenly distribute your weight while walking on snow.  On a flat trail this is ok, but we went down part of the mountain (where I got stuck in a snowdrift) and back up through the underbrush, so it was difficult and not as awesome as I had hoped.

I spent about 7 hours at the park that day, so I was pretty pooped that evening.  I went out to dinner with Julie and Patrice and we found a lovely Italian restaurant.  Monday, I camped out in the hotel room in my pajamas to work on homework, complete my readings, and nap.  I got a bit of fresh air and dinner when I went back to Monoprix to buy more supplies, but that was it.  Nothing interesting, but I think an afternoon of dog sledding the day before made up for it!

#14: Andorra La Vella

On Saturday morning I woke up in Puigcerdá, Spain, walked across the river to Bourg Madame, France, and two hours later arrived in Andorra la Vella, Andorra.  Three countries in three hours--that should be some sort of record!

Andorra, as I've mentioned before, is a tiny country tucked in the Pyrenees Mountains between France and Spain.  The official language is Catalan, but they also speak Spanish and French equally, followed by English.  It's a principality, so historically it's co-ruled by a Spanish prince and a French one, but it still has a parliament and a prime minister like most constitutional monarchies around Europe.  It's also one of the top 10 richest nations in the world--but shh, don't mention it!  Andorrans are very low-key about their wealth, but at the same time it's really obvious, if you're looking for it.  Andorra has a 100% employment rate.  I never once saw a homeless person, or even a musician or artist performing for change on a street corner.  Everyone has on name-brand clothes.  Along the highway, the car dealerships I saw were Ferrari/Maserati, Land Rover/Jaguar, BMW/Mini Cooper, Mercedes-Benz, and Audi--and then the "moderate" cars like Volkswagen, Citroen, Peugeut and Renault (the last three are French car companies).  I noticed a few Hyundais driving on the roads, but it seems like it's mostly European cars here--maybe American and Asian cars cost too much to import.

So where does Andorra get all that money from?  TOURISM.  Andorra has some of the best shopping (duty-free!  as in, you don't pay any tax on anything) and skiing in the world.  In the winter, it's cold and snowy, which is great to hit the slopes, but in the summer it's warm and sunny, which is great to hit the shops!  For a city that had only three major streets (it's impossible to get lost in Andorra la Vella--trust me), there were more stores than Chicago's Magnificent Mile.  Watch shops, electronics stores, perfumeries, clothing boutiques, shoe outlets... for every person, every market, every object, there's a store.  The best part is that we arrived during rebaixes (re-bai-shes) season, which is their twice-a-year major closeout/liquidation sales.  Oh, and the European Union is really strict about knockoffs, so everything you saw was the licensed product.  Need a new ipod?  The store across the street from the hotel had an 8gb for 32E, for instance.  One of the clothing stores I went into had an entire rack of shirts that were 3-7E.  And don't forget, no pesky sales tax, so if it's 3 euros on the tag, it's 3 euros at the register.

So I guess it won't be hard to guess that I spent my first day in Andorra going from store to store, checking out the bargains.  I was with a group of (all female) classmates, and I think we visited... five stores? Six?  We all ended up at the local grocery store, Monoprix (a French chain similar to Target in the States), and bought food and snacks to keep in our rooms since we'd be there for 3 nights.  I found a 1.5liter bottle of water for just 22¢!  With that, chips and cookies, two oranges, and a sandwich from the deli, I spent maybe 4E.  (PS: In Europe, they have a standard sized water bottle that is a little smaller than the one in the states, and then the mondo liter and a half.  Most times, it's cheaper to buy the mondo bottle and tote it around for a couple days.)

Final consensus on Andorra:  major thumbs up.  It's got a great lifestyle, but only if you have some cash to put up with it.  As Josep would say:  "I love it, I love it, I like it!"